The Stirring Spoon

Buraniyya

Vegetables & SaladsArabic, 10th and 13th centuryal-Warraq, Kitab al-Tabikh; al-Baghdadi, Kitab al-TabikhCrown Hospitality SpreadCurrent project — cooking pending

Original

One of the most famous dishes in medieval Arab cuisine, named for Buran (d. 884), wife of Caliph al-Ma'mun. Multiple versions exist across al-Warraq (10th c.) and al-Baghdadi (1226). The al-Baghdadi version (paraphrased from Perry/Arberry translation, available via daviddfriedman.com/Cariadoc's Miscellany):

Take eggplant, and boil lightly in water and salt, then take out and dry for an hour. Fry this in fresh sesame oil until cooked: peel, put into a dish or a large cup, and beat well with a ladle, until it becomes like kabis. Add a little salt and dry coriander. Take some Persian milk [yogurt], mix in garlic, pour over the eggplant, and mix together well.

The meat-topped version continues with minced lamb cabobs fried in tail fat, placed on top, sprinkled with cumin and cinnamon.

FRYING ALERT: The original calls for frying the eggplant. For the no-fry constraint, roast the eggplant instead — this is a common modern adaptation and was also suggested by medieval physicians (al-Razi recommended parboiling to remove bitterness). Roasting achieves the same soft texture without frying.

Onion check: The al-Baghdadi version shown above uses garlic, not onion. However, other versions (Egyptian, Andalusian) may include onion — use the al-Baghdadi yogurt version.

My Redaction

Eat Like A Sultan (Prof. Daniel Newman) provides a scholarly recreation. The Cariadoc's Miscellany PDF also contains the recipe with a basic redaction. Source: eatlikeasultan.com/buraniyya/

Practical adaptation for no-fry: Roast whole eggplants at 400°F until collapsed (~40 min). Scoop flesh, mash, mix with yogurt, garlic, ground coriander, salt. Top with browned spiced lamb if using the meat version. Serve cold or room temperature with bread.

For hospitality service: Make day-ahead. Serve in a bowl with bread for dipping. The yogurt makes this a cooler item. The mashed eggplant-yogurt base is essentially a medieval baba ghannouj.