The Stirring Spoon

Hypotrimma

Dairy, Cheese & EggsRoman, c. 4th-5th century ADApicius, De Re Coquinaria, Book I, recipe 33Crown Hospitality SpreadCurrent project — cooking pending

Original

One of the best-documented Apicius recipes. The Latin text and English translation are widely available online from multiple sources:

HYPOTRIMMA: Piper, ligusticum, mentam aridam, nucleos pineos, uvam passam, caryotam, caseum dulcem, mel, acetum, liquamen, oleum, vinum, defritum aut caroenum.

The name means "something ground up" in Greek — a paste made in a mortar. Grainger (Cooking Apicius, 2006) identifies it as a cheese and fruit dip, served cold with bread. No cooking required.

Translation

Translation (from Grocock & Grainger, 2006): Hypotrimma: pepper, lovage, dried mint, pine nuts, raisins, dates, sweet cheese, honey, vinegar, liquamen, oil, wine, defrutum or caroenum.

My Redaction

Multiple tested redactions available:

Tavola Mediterranea provides a detailed tested redaction with full method and presentation guidance: 3 cups ricotta/soft cheese, pepper, lovage (or celery seed), dried mint, pine nuts, raisins, dates, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, olive oil, wine, defrutum. Pound spices in mortar, mix with cheese, incorporate fruits and liquids. Shape or pipe into serving bowl. Source: tavolamediterranea.com/2019/02/17/the-roman-sweet-tooth-apicius-hypotrimma/

Working Classicists provides a simpler version: 250g ricotta (or 50/50 ricotta and soft goat's cheese), lovage seeds, dried mint, pine nuts, raisins, dates soaked in sweet wine, honey, vinegar, fish sauce, olive oil. Blitz in food processor or pound in mortar. Source: workingclassicists.com/zine/eating-rome-hypotrimma

Edesian Experiments provides a smaller-batch version: 1 cup ricotta, a few peppercorns, ½ tsp celery seed, mint, 1 Tbsp pine nuts, 2 tsp raisins, 3 dates, 1 tsp each honey/vinegar/fish sauce/olive oil, 1 tsp sweet wine, 1 Tbsp caroenum. Source: edesianexperiments.blogspot.com/2015/09/apicius-133-413-cheese-spreads.html

Sally Grainger, Cooking Apicius (Prospect Books, 2006) contains the definitive tested adaptation. The book labels it "Cheese and fruit dip."

For hospitality service: No cooking required day-of. Make ahead, transport in a sealed container. Serve in a bowl with bread for spreading/dipping. Completely cooler-stable. Substitute Asian fish sauce for liquamen. Defrutum = reduced grape must (substitute grape molasses, vincotto, or boiled-down grape juice).