The Stirring Spoon

Sikbaj

Meats & FishArabic/Persian, 10th and 13th centuryal-Baghdadi, Kitab al-Tabikh; al-WarraqCrown Hospitality SpreadCurrent project — cooking pending

Original

One of the best-documented medieval Arabic dishes. The al-Baghdadi version (1226) is available in Perry's translation and widely cited. From medievalcuisine.com (paraphrased from Perry's translation of al-Baghdadi):

Cut fat meat into middling pieces, place in the saucepan, and cover with water, fresh coriander, cinnamon-bark, and salt to taste. When boiling, remove the froth. Remove the fresh coriander, and add dry coriander. Take white onions, Syrian leeks, and carrots if in season, or else egg-plant… Add seasonings, and salt to taste. When almost cooked, take wine-vinegar and date-juice, or honey if preferred… mix together so that the mixture is midway between sharp and sweet, then pour into the saucepan, and boil for an hour. When ready to take off the fire, remove a little of the broth, bray into it saffron as required, and pour back into the saucepan.

ONION ALERT: The al-Baghdadi version calls for white onions and leeks. However, the text says these are used "if in season" as an alternative to eggplant. For the no-onion constraint, use the eggplant version and omit the onions/leeks entirely. The dish works without them.

My Redaction

Eat Like A Sultan (Prof. Daniel Newman) provides a scholarly recreation based on the 1226 al-Baghdadi text, with academic credentials. A second version using an Egyptian source is also available. Source: eatlikeasultan.com/vinegar-stew-سكباج-sikbaj/ and eatlikeasultan.com/sikbaj-the-return/

medievalcuisine.com provides a tested redaction with modern measurements: 600g lamb, cinnamon, coriander, ½ cup vinegar, ½ cup honey, saffron, dried figs, raisins, almonds.

For hospitality service: Make 1–2 days ahead. Serve cold or room temperature — the sweet-sour reduction improves overnight. Omit onions; use eggplant. The dried fruit and saffron make this visually striking on the table.